All Seasonal Guides

Summer in Esquel

Summer unlocks Esquel's full potential as a gateway to Los Alerces National Park and its ancient alerce forests. Ride the iconic La Trochita steam train, swim in pristine lakes, hike through Valdivian rainforest, and enjoy warm days in this authentic Patagonian town.

Esquel is an authentic Patagonian town of about 35,000 people in Argentina's Chubut province, far from the tourist crowds of better-known destinations. It serves as the gateway to Los Alerces National Park — a UNESCO World Heritage Site protecting some of the oldest living trees on Earth — and the charming Welsh-heritage village of Trevelin.

Summer brings Esquel's best weather, with warm days reaching 24-28°C and clear skies perfect for exploring the surrounding national park, lakes, and forests. The season transforms the area into an outdoor enthusiast's playground, with hiking trails through ancient alerce groves, kayaking on emerald lakes, fly fishing in pristine rivers, and swimming in glacial waters warmed enough by summer sun to be refreshing rather than frigid.

The town's most famous attraction, La Trochita (the Old Patagonian Express), runs its narrow-gauge steam train on a scenic route through the countryside. This charming relic of early 20th-century Patagonian transportation has been immortalized in Paul Theroux's travel writing and remains a must-do experience. In nearby Trevelin, Welsh teahouses serve traditional afternoon tea with homemade cakes, preserving a cultural heritage dating back to Welsh colonists who arrived in the 1880s.

With its own airport, good road connections, and proximity to both Los Alerces and Lago Puelo national parks, Esquel makes an excellent base for summer exploration. A rental car opens up countless scenic drives through mountain passes, along lakeshores, and into the heart of Patagonia's wilderness.

Weather Overview

Avg High

26°C

Avg Low

9°C

Precipitation

Summer is the driest season with about 15-30mm per month. Brief afternoon showers are possible but extended rain is uncommon.

Wind

Moderate winds are common, particularly in the afternoon. The town is somewhat sheltered by surrounding mountains, but open areas and lakeshores can be gusty.

Daylight

Long days with 16-17 hours of daylight, allowing extended exploration time in the national park and surrounding areas.

Summer in Esquel is warm and generally sunny with low humidity. Days can get quite hot in the valley, while mountain areas and lakesides are cooler. Evening temperatures drop noticeably, making a jacket advisable for outdoor dining or stargazing. The combination of warm days and cool nights is ideal for hiking.

Activities

Available Activities

Los Alerces National Park

Explore this UNESCO World Heritage Site with ancient alerce trees over 2,600 years old. Summer offers the best conditions for hiking, swimming in Lago Futalaufquen, and taking the boat excursion across Lago Menéndez to the ancient alerce grove.

La Trochita Steam Train

Ride this iconic narrow-gauge steam train on its scenic route from Esquel. The vintage 1920s locomotive and wooden carriages offer a nostalgic journey through the Patagonian countryside. Summer schedules offer the most departures.

Trevelin Welsh Tea

Visit the nearby Welsh-heritage village of Trevelin for traditional Welsh afternoon tea with homemade cakes, scones, and preserves. Explore the Nant-y-Fall waterfall and the town's charming tulip-lined streets.

Fly Fishing

The rivers and lakes around Esquel offer excellent fly fishing for brown and rainbow trout. The Futaleufú, Rivadavia, and Arrayanes rivers are all accessible in summer with ideal water conditions.

Kayaking and Swimming

Lago Futalaufquen and other lakes in Los Alerces National Park are perfect for summer kayaking and swimming. The water warms enough to be enjoyable, and the mountain backdrop is spectacular.

Mountain Biking

Trails around Esquel and in the foothills offer excellent mountain biking in summer. The terrain ranges from gentle lakeside paths to challenging mountain descents.

Not Available This Season

La Hoya ski resort (winter only, June-September)Snowshoeing and winter trekkingSome high-altitude trails may be closed in early December if snow lingers

Accommodation

Esquel has a good range of accommodation including hotels, cabañas, hostels, and campgrounds. Los Alerces National Park has organized campsites and a few lodges within its boundaries. Trevelin offers charming bed-and-breakfasts. Summer is the busy season but availability is generally better than at more famous destinations. Booking a week or two ahead is advisable for January.

Crowds & Tourism

Esquel sees moderate summer tourism, much lighter than Bariloche or El Calafate. Los Alerces National Park can be busy at main access points in January, but the park's vast size means solitude is easily found on longer trails. La Trochita can sell out, so book ahead. Overall, the area retains an authentic, unhurried character even in peak season.

Pricing

Esquel offers excellent value compared to Patagonia's marquee destinations. Accommodation, dining, and activities are noticeably cheaper than in Bariloche or El Calafate. National park entrance fees are reasonable. Car rental rates are competitive. Budget travelers can manage on $50-80 USD per day; mid-range travelers should budget $100-150 USD.

Driving Conditions

Important for car rental travelers

Main roads around Esquel are paved and well-maintained, including the route to Los Alerces National Park and Trevelin. Ruta 40 connects north to El Bolsón and Bariloche (paved). Within the national park, roads are a mix of paved and well-maintained gravel. A standard rental car handles all main routes comfortably, though a higher-clearance vehicle is useful for exploring secondary park roads. Renting a car is highly recommended for the freedom to explore the national park, visit Trevelin, and discover hidden lakeside spots.

Packing Essentials

Sunscreen and sunglasses
Comfortable hiking boots
Swimsuit and quick-dry towel
Light layers for temperature changes
Waterproof jacket for unexpected showers
Insect repellent
Binoculars for birdwatching
Camera for ancient forests and lake views
Cash for smaller establishments
Reusable water bottle
Daypack for park excursions

Events & Festivals

Fiesta Nacional del Esquí (Ski Festival setup)

While the ski festival is in winter, summer sees preparatory events and cultural celebrations in Esquel, including local music and food festivals.

Eisteddfod de la Juventud

Trevelin hosts Welsh-heritage cultural festivals including poetry, singing, and traditional arts that celebrate the area's unique cultural identity, with events throughout summer.

Summer Music and Culture

Esquel's cultural center and main plaza host live music, artisan fairs, and theater performances throughout the summer, showcasing local talent and Patagonian traditions.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • Gateway to UNESCO-listed Los Alerces National Park and ancient forests.
  • Iconic La Trochita steam train experience.
  • Much less crowded than mainstream Patagonian destinations.
  • Excellent value for money across accommodation, dining, and activities.
  • Unique Welsh cultural heritage in nearby Trevelin.
  • Superb fly fishing and lake activities in pristine settings.

Cons

  • Fewer direct flight connections than major destinations.
  • Nightlife and dining options are limited compared to larger cities.
  • Some park excursions (like the boat to the ancient alerces) book out in January.
  • Afternoon wind can pick up unexpectedly.
  • Remote location means longer travel times from Buenos Aires.

Explore by Car This Season

A rental car gives you the freedom to explore Patagonia at your own pace, no matter the season.

Browse Car Rentals

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Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Esquel?

Esquel has its own airport with flights from Buenos Aires (Aerolíneas Argentinas). You can also drive from Bariloche (about 4.5 hours south via Ruta 40, fully paved) or take a bus. Renting a car in Esquel or Bariloche is the best option for exploring the area.

Is Los Alerces National Park worth visiting?

Absolutely. The park was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017 for its extraordinary ancient alerce forests. The boat excursion to the 2,600-year-old alerce grove is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Summer offers the best conditions for all park activities.

What is La Trochita?

La Trochita (The Old Patagonian Express) is a narrow-gauge steam railway built in the 1920s. The vintage locomotives pull original wooden carriages on scenic routes from Esquel. It's a living piece of Patagonian history and one of the last operating steam railways in the world.

Can I combine Esquel with other Patagonian destinations?

Yes, Esquel connects easily by road to El Bolsón (2.5 hours north), Bariloche (4.5 hours), and Lago Puelo National Park (2 hours). A rental car makes a multi-destination road trip through the Lake District very manageable.

What is the Welsh connection to Trevelin?

Welsh settlers arrived in Patagonia in 1865, establishing colonies along the Chubut River. Trevelin was founded by Welsh pioneers in the 1880s. Today, the Welsh heritage is preserved through teahouses, the annual Eisteddfod cultural festival, and bilingual signs in Welsh and Spanish.

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