Hot Springs: Esquel
Esquel, a gateway to Los Alerces National Park and the Patagonian steppe, sits where the Andes foothills meet the vast Argentine plains. The area's volcanic geology produces modest but charming thermal springs in spectacular mountain and forest settings.
Introduction
Esquel is a small city in Chubut province, best known as the starting point for the Old Patagonian Express (La Trochita) steam train and the gateway to Los Alerces National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town sits at the transition zone between the wet Andean forests and the dry Patagonian steppe, creating a unique landscape of lakes, forests, and open grasslands. While not a major hot springs destination, Esquel and its surroundings offer several thermal sites where travelers can relax after hiking in the national park or exploring the Welsh colony town of Trevelin. The springs here tend to be natural and undeveloped, rewarding those who seek them out with peaceful solitude.
Hot Springs
Termas de Cholila
NaturalNatural warm pools in a pastoral valley near Cholila, the area made famous as the hideout of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. The springs emerge in a meadow with views of the Andes, surrounded by sheep ranches and poplar-lined roads. The experience is quintessentially Patagonian in its simplicity and beauty.
Termas del Río Arrayanes
WildWild hot springs along the Arrayanes River in the forests bordering Los Alerces National Park. Warm water seeps into natural rock pools beneath ancient coihue and lenga trees. The springs are modest but the pristine forest setting and the sound of the rushing river create a deeply peaceful experience.
Termas de Nahuel Pan
NaturalGentle warm springs managed by the Mapuche community of Nahuel Pan, the same community that hosts the La Trochita steam train stop. The springs are very modest but the cultural connection and the opportunity to support the local indigenous community add value beyond the thermal experience.
Safety Tips
Wild springs in Los Alerces area require proper hiking preparation
Ruta 40 between Esquel and Cholila can have livestock on the road — drive carefully
Weather can be cold and windy, especially in the steppe areas — bring warm layers
Cell service is limited in rural areas around Esquel
Respect Mapuche community protocols when visiting Nahuel Pan springs
Carry extra fuel when driving north to Cholila, as gas stations are scarce
What to Bring
- Swimsuit
- Towel
- Warm layers and windproof jacket
- Hiking boots for wild springs
- Drinking water and snacks
- Cash in Argentine pesos (small denominations)
- Sunscreen and hat
- Camera for the stunning scenery
Best Season to Visit
Summer (December to March) offers the warmest temperatures and best access to all springs. The shoulder months of November and April can work for the more accessible springs. Winter visits are impractical for wild springs but the Nahuel Pan community springs can be visited year-round.
Getting There
Esquel has its own airport (EQS) with flights from Buenos Aires and Bariloche. The city is also connected by Ruta 40 to Bariloche (300 km north, about 4 hours) and by Ruta 259 to the Chilean border at Futaleufú (75 km west). Buses from Buenos Aires take about 20 hours. A rental car is recommended for visiting hot springs in the area.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Are Esquel's hot springs worth a special trip?
Esquel's springs are modest and best enjoyed as part of a broader trip that includes Los Alerces National Park, La Trochita, and the Trevelin Welsh colony. They complement rather than anchor a visit to the area.
Can I visit hot springs and Los Alerces in the same trip?
Yes, the Arrayanes River springs are near the park, making it easy to combine a park visit with a hot spring soak. Plan at least 3-4 days in the Esquel area to experience both properly.
Is the drive from Bariloche to Esquel scenic?
The Ruta 40 route through Cholila and El Bolsón is one of the most scenic drives in Patagonia, passing through lake-studded valleys, forests, and mountain panoramas. The drive takes about 4 hours without stops.
What is the Mapuche thermal tradition?
The Mapuche people have used thermal waters for healing and spiritual purposes for centuries. The community at Nahuel Pan shares some of these traditions with visitors, offering a cultural dimension to the hot spring experience.