All Seasonal Guides

Winter in Los Alerces National Park

UNESCO-listed Los Alerces National Park protects some of Earth's oldest living trees. In winter, these ancient Alerce forests stand draped in snow beside emerald lakes, creating a primeval landscape of extraordinary beauty accessible from the nearby town of Esquel.

Los Alerces National Park, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017, protects one of the last remaining stands of Patagonian Alerce (Fitzroya cupressoides) — trees that can live over 3,000 years, making them among the oldest living organisms on Earth. Located in Argentina's Chubut Province near the town of Esquel, the park encompasses pristine lakes, rivers, and Valdivian temperate rainforest.

In winter, from June through August, Los Alerces transforms into a snow-covered sanctuary. The ancient forests, draped in white, take on an almost mystical quality. Lakes like Futalaufquen and Menéndez reflect snow-covered peaks, and the park's famous emerald-green rivers continue flowing through frozen landscapes. The combination of World Heritage ancient forests and winter beauty creates an experience unlike any other in Patagonia.

While many of the park's longer trails and the celebrated boat excursion to the ancient Alerce grove are unavailable in winter, the park's lower areas and road-accessible viewpoints remain open. The nearby town of Esquel serves as a base, offering La Hoya ski resort as an additional winter attraction. This combination of UNESCO natural heritage, winter sports, and the charm of a Patagonian mountain town makes the area a compelling winter destination.

Weather Overview

Avg High

6°C

Avg Low

-2°C

Precipitation

Heavy, averaging 150-250mm per month. Predominantly snow at park elevations. Rain possible at lower areas near the lake. Extended snowfall events are common.

Wind

Moderate within the park's forested valleys. More exposed lake and ridge areas can be windy.

Daylight

Approximately 8-9 hours of daylight. Forest canopy further reduces light in dense Alerce groves.

Winter in Los Alerces is cold and snowy. The park's western position catches moisture from Pacific weather systems, producing reliable snowfall. Temperatures stay near or below freezing for extended periods. The ancient forests create a hushed, cathedral-like atmosphere when laden with snow. Clear days between storms reveal stunning mountain and lake views.

Activities

Available Activities

Park Road Scenic Drive

The main park road along Lago Futalaufquen is maintained in winter (conditions permitting) and offers stunning views of the lake and snow-covered mountains. Viewpoints and short stops along the road showcase the park's beauty.

Skiing at La Hoya

La Hoya ski resort near Esquel is known for excellent dry powder snow. It's smaller and less expensive than northern resorts, with a local, family atmosphere. Equipment rental is available.

Lower Forest Walks

Short trails near the park entrance and along the lakeshore remain accessible in winter for snowshoeing or careful walking. The ancient forests under snow are awe-inspiring.

La Trochita (Old Patagonian Express)

The famous narrow-gauge steam train runs from Esquel on a reduced winter schedule. This historic railway through the Patagonian landscape is a classic experience enhanced by winter scenery.

Esquel Town Exploration

The town of Esquel offers Welsh-influenced tea houses, local restaurants, and the cultural heritage of the region's Welsh settler community. Winter is a cozy time to explore.

Not Available This Season

Boat excursion to the ancient Alerce grove (suspended in winter)Most multi-day hiking trails (snow-covered and unmarked)Camping facilities throughout the parkFishing (season closed)Most park visitor services and interpretive programs

Accommodation

Esquel provides reliable year-round accommodation ranging from hotels to hostels and cabañas. Within the park, a few lakeside lodges may remain open — confirm in advance. Esquel's accommodation is affordable and well-suited as a winter base, with easy access to both the park and La Hoya ski resort.

Crowds & Tourism

The park sees very few visitors in winter. La Hoya attracts modest ski crowds, mainly locals and domestic visitors, especially during July holidays. Overall, winter in the area is quiet and uncrowded.

Pricing

Good value across the board. Esquel's accommodation and dining are affordable year-round, with winter bringing additional discounts. La Hoya ski passes are among the cheapest in Argentina. Car rental from Esquel or the local airport provides access to both the park and ski resort.

Driving Conditions

Important for car rental travelers

The road from Esquel to Los Alerces park entrance (approximately 50km) is a mix of paved and gravel. Winter conditions can make it challenging, with ice and snow. The park's internal road may be partially closed depending on conditions — check with park rangers. Snow chains are essential. A capable vehicle with good clearance is recommended. The road to La Hoya ski resort is maintained but also requires winter driving caution. Car rental from Esquel airport or town is straightforward.

Packing Essentials

Warm waterproof jacket
Thermal base layers
Insulated waterproof boots
Warm hat, gloves, and scarf
Fleece mid-layers
Snowshoes (if planning forest walks)
Ski gear or plan to rent at La Hoya
Camera with extra batteries
Snow chains for vehicle
Thermos for hot drinks
Sunglasses and sunscreen
Headlamp

Events & Festivals

La Hoya Ski Season

The ski season at La Hoya typically runs June through September, with events, competitions, and family activities throughout. The resort is known for its excellent powder snow.

Eisteddfod (Welsh Cultural Festival)

The Welsh community in the region maintains cultural traditions including language, music, and food. While the main Eisteddfod is in October, Welsh tea houses operate year-round in Esquel and nearby Trevelin.

La Trochita Winter Runs

The historic Old Patagonian Express steam train operates special winter excursions, offering a nostalgic journey through snowy Patagonian landscapes.

Pros & Cons

Pros

  • UNESCO World Heritage ancient forests under snow are breathtaking.
  • Affordable skiing at La Hoya with excellent powder.
  • Historic La Trochita steam train experience.
  • Welsh cultural heritage adds unique character.
  • Quiet, uncrowded park experience.
  • Esquel provides reliable services and cozy accommodation.

Cons

  • Boat excursion to the ancient Alerce grove is not available.
  • Heavy snowfall can limit park road access.
  • Most hiking trails are closed or inaccessible.
  • Short daylight hours, especially in the dense forest.
  • Remote location requires self-driving.

Explore by Car This Season

A rental car gives you the freedom to explore Patagonia at your own pace, no matter the season.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Can I see the ancient Alerce trees in winter?

The famous 2,600-year-old Alerce grove accessed by boat on Lago Menéndez is not available in winter. However, shorter walks near the park entrance pass through forests that include younger Alerce specimens, and the overall forest atmosphere is magnificent under snow.

How does La Hoya compare to other Argentine ski resorts?

La Hoya is smaller but known for excellent dry powder snow and an uncrowded, family-friendly atmosphere. It's significantly cheaper than Cerro Catedral or Chapelco. Great for beginners and intermediates, with some challenging terrain for advanced skiers.

Is the park road open in winter?

The main road to Lago Futalaufquen is maintained but may be temporarily closed during heavy snowfall. Check with park rangers in Esquel for current conditions. Even when open, snow chains and careful driving are required.

How do I get to Esquel?

Fly to Esquel airport from Buenos Aires (LATAM and Aerolíneas Argentinas operate flights). Car rental is available at the airport. Alternatively, drive from Bariloche (approximately 300km on Ruta 40, 4-5 hours in winter).

What is La Trochita?

La Trochita (the Old Patagonian Express) is a historic narrow-gauge steam railway that runs from Esquel. Made famous by Paul Theroux's book, it offers short tourist excursions through Patagonian scenery. Winter runs operate on a reduced schedule — check locally.

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