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Discover Lago del Desierto, a pristine glacial lake hidden 37 km north of El Chalten in Argentine Patagonia. Surrounded by lenga forests and feeding glaciers, this off-the-radar destination offers kayaking, hiking to glacier viewpoints, and a remote border crossing to Chile's Villa O'Higgins.
Lago del Desierto, the 'Lake of the Desert,' is one of Patagonia's most misleadingly named places. Far from barren, this 15 km long glacial lake is surrounded by dense lenga and coihue forest, fed by hanging glaciers that cascade from the mountains above, and backed by a panorama of ice-capped peaks along the continental divide. Located 37 km north of El Chalten along a scenic gravel road, the lake was at the center of a territorial dispute between Argentina and Chile that was only resolved by international arbitration in 1994, adding a layer of geopolitical intrigue to its natural beauty.
Despite its proximity to El Chalten, one of Patagonia's most popular trekking hubs, Lago del Desierto remains surprisingly under-visited. Most hikers focus on the famous trails to Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre, leaving the road north to the lake relatively quiet. Those who make the drive are rewarded with a fundamentally different landscape: calm, forested, and reflective, a counterpoint to the wind-blasted granite towers of the Fitz Roy massif.
The lake itself offers multiple experiences. A short trail from the south shore leads to a stunning viewpoint of the Huemul Glacier. Kayaking excursions paddle through waters reflecting snow-capped peaks. A catamaran crosses the lake to the north shore, where a trail continues to the Chilean border and eventually connects to Villa O'Higgins, one of South America's great adventure border crossings. For self-drivers based in El Chalten, Lago del Desierto is the essential half-day or full-day excursion that most visitors overlook.
A well-marked 3.5 km trail from the south shore of the lake climbs through lenga forest to a breathtaking viewpoint overlooking the Huemul Glacier and its turquoise meltwater lagoon. The glacier descends from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, and on calm days its reflection in the lagoon is extraordinary. Allow 2-3 hours round trip.
Guided kayaking excursions offer a serene way to experience the lake's pristine waters, surrounded by forest-clad mountains and glaciers. Paddling conditions are generally calmer than on Lago Argentino or Lago Viedma, making it accessible for beginners. The silence broken only by birdsong and distant ice calving is unforgettable.
The 37 km gravel road from El Chalten to Lago del Desierto is a scenic drive through Patagonian forest with glimpses of the Fitz Roy range in the rearview mirror. The road follows the Río de las Vueltas valley, passing small estancias and wildflower meadows. Take your time and stop at the viewpoints along the way.
From the north shore of Lago del Desierto, a trail and boat combination leads to the Chilean border and eventually to Villa O'Higgins. This multi-day crossing is one of the great adventure routes of Patagonia, traversing the continental divide on foot and connecting the Carretera Austral to Ruta 40. It requires careful planning but is a legendary journey.
A catamaran service operates across the full length of Lago del Desierto during summer, offering stunning views of the surrounding peaks, glaciers, and forest from the water. Even if you are not making the border crossing, a round-trip on the catamaran is a peaceful way to absorb the scenery.
The forests around Lago del Desierto are excellent for birdwatching. Magellanic woodpeckers, Austral parakeets, torrent ducks along the streams, and Andean condors soaring above the ridgeline are regular sightings. Several short forest trails near the lakeshore provide easy walking through old-growth lenga forest.
For those spending a full day, trails beyond the main lakeshore lead to smaller lakes and viewpoints including Laguna del Diablo, nestled in a hanging valley above the main lake. These less-trafficked paths offer deeper immersion in the backcountry.
December - February
Mild days (12-20°C) with long daylight hours. Generally less windy than El Chalten proper due to the protected valley location. Rain is always possible but these are the driest months.
Moderate crowds
January is busiest due to the Argentine holiday season, but even then, Lago del Desierto feels uncrowded compared to El Chalten's popular trails. The catamaran and kayaking services operate fully.
March - May
Cooling temperatures (5-14°C) with stunning autumn foliage in the lenga forests surrounding the lake. Shorter days and increasing chance of rain or early snow at higher elevations.
Low crowds
March and early April offer spectacular fall colors reflecting in the lake. Many services wind down by mid-April, so confirm catamaran schedules. The Huemul Glacier trail remains accessible.
June - August
Cold (minus 5 to 5°C) with snow, ice, and short daylight hours. The access road may be impassable or dangerous without chains. Most services are closed.
Low crowds
The road can be closed due to snow and ice. Winter visits require serious preparation and are only feasible in a well-equipped 4x4 on clear days. The frozen landscape is beautiful but access is unreliable.
| From | Method | Duration | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| El Chalten | car | 45 minutes - 1 hour | $15-25 USD (fuel for rental car) | Drive north from El Chalten on Ruta Provincial 23, a well-maintained gravel road. The route follows the Río de las Vueltas valley through forest and meadows. No 4x4 is strictly needed in summer, but high clearance is recommended. There is a small parking area at the south shore where the Huemul Glacier trail and kayaking services are based. |
| El Calafate | car | 4-4.5 hours | $60-90 USD (fuel) | Drive from El Calafate to El Chalten on Ruta 40 and Ruta 23 (3 hours, paved), then continue north to the lake on the gravel road. A full-day excursion from El Calafate is possible but long. Basing yourself in El Chalten for a night or two is strongly recommended. |
| El Chalten | bus | 1.5 hours | $15-30 USD (round trip) | During summer, shuttle buses and transfer services run from El Chalten to Lago del Desierto. These typically depart in the morning and return in the afternoon, giving you 3-5 hours at the lake. Convenient if you do not have a rental car, but less flexible than self-driving. |
$10-20/night/night
Basic campgrounds near the south shore of the lake offer tent sites in the forest with lake access. Facilities are minimal (pit toilets, no showers). Bring all food and supplies from El Chalten. The setting is spectacular for waking up lakeside.
$20-45/night/night
El Chalten has excellent hostels for budget travelers. Use the town as your base and drive to Lago del Desierto as a day trip. Rancho Grande Hostel and Hostel Pioneros are popular, well-located options.
$80-180/night/night
Comfortable cabins and small hotels in El Chalten offer a warm base for exploring the lake and surrounding trails. Many include breakfast and can arrange excursions. Hostería El Pilar, located on the road to Lago del Desierto, is particularly well-positioned.
$200-400/night/night
Estancias along the road between El Chalten and Lago del Desierto offer upscale stays with horseback riding, gourmet meals, and guided excursions. These provide a luxurious counterpoint to the rugged landscape.
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Absolutely. While El Chalten is famous for its mountain treks, Lago del Desierto offers a completely different experience: a serene glacial lake, forest walks, and the Huemul Glacier viewpoint. It is the perfect complement to the high-energy Fitz Roy trails, especially on a rest day between strenuous hikes.
Yes. From El Chalten, you can drive to the lake in under an hour, hike the Huemul Glacier viewpoint trail (2-3 hours round trip), and return to town in time for a late lunch. A full day allows you to add kayaking, forest walks, or the catamaran cruise.
The name predates detailed exploration of the area. Early maps and accounts described the region as a remote, empty wilderness (desierto in the sense of uninhabited or deserted), and the name stuck. The irony is apparent upon arrival, as the lake is surrounded by some of the lushest forest in Patagonia.
September - November
Variable (3-12°C) with snowmelt swelling the rivers and streams. Wind picks up. Late November sees services beginning to resume.
Low crowds
Late November is when the road becomes reliably passable and services restart. The waterfalls along the access road are at their most dramatic with snowmelt. Check conditions before driving.
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Yes. The border crossing involves a catamaran across the lake, a 15 km trek over the continental divide, and a boat across Lago O'Higgins to reach Villa O'Higgins in Chile. This multi-day route operates from November to March and requires advance planning, stamped documentation, and sufficient fitness for the trail. It is not a casual border crossing.
In summer, a standard vehicle with reasonable ground clearance can handle the gravel road. However, a 4x4 provides more comfort and safety, especially after rain when the road can be muddy and slippery. In shoulder seasons, 4x4 is strongly recommended.
Cell service is nonexistent at the lake and intermittent along the access road. Service returns as you approach El Chalten. Download offline maps and inform someone of your plans before heading out.
Technically yes, but the water is glacially cold (around 4-8°C even in summer). Only brief dips are realistic for most people. The shoreline offers some accessible spots, but this is not a swimming destination.
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